LFW’s Leading Make-Up Artists Share The Biggest Trends To Take Note Of This Season

There’s been something palpable in the air this London Fashion Week. For its 40th anniversary, emerging and heritage designers pulled out all the stops in arguably the most exuberant display of creativity we’ve witnessed in years.

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Unsurprisingly, backstage beauty has told a similar story where innovation and artistry have superseded the barely-there bases of seasons gone by. Just look at Harris Reed’s beauty aesthetic where the make-up artists at Charlotte Tilbury transformed models into 19th century French silhouettes complete with doll lips and colourful lids, or Chet Lo’s eccentric azure blues, which saw washes of bold eyeshadow paired with matching crimped hairstyles, and the lustrous skin which took on an ethereal quality at both Erdem and Richard Quinn.

Below, ELLE UK chatted to the make-up masterminds behind some of our favourite beauty storyboards whilst backstage at London Fashion Week, who have shared some of the biggest make-up trends that are likely to take hold for the coming season…

Sunset Lips

‘I was trying to pay homage to Priya’s heritage because this collection is all about Jamaica and India and the idea of being home,’ shares MAC make-up artist Mata Marielle of the sunset inspiration behind Ahluwalia’s LFW debut. ‘When we think about home, it doesn’t matter what time it is or where you are going, you come looking your best… Glowy skin is a must! We played with warm colours – the reds and the oranges – whilst enhancing the natural lips,’ she adds.

Underpainting 2.0

For Lauren Parsons, the MUA leading 16Arlington’s glamorous make-up, a new kind of underpainting helped create defined, and bronzed, cheekbones. ‘We’ve applied the bronzer and the blush before the foundation. We want it to look like it’s coming through the skin,’ she tells ELLE UK backstage.

Otherworldly Glow

Paired with Noughties nudes and brown lip liner, Patrick McDowell’s beauty aesthetic was a lesson in ethereal skin. The inspiration? ‘Streetwise red carpet, high fashion meets high drama, luxurious skin with a barbed wire eye,’ shares Dominic Skinner, the director of make-up artistry for MAC Cosmetics.

Green Moss

An all over wash of colour (namely blue eyeshadow) became a major talking point at London Fashion Week this season. At Tove, moss greens, navy blues and nudes were applied all over the lids using Merit’s Solo Shadow. ‘The models each wore a selection of nude, brown, mauve, and unexpected flashes of navy and mossy green to complement their skin tones and outfits,’ says lead make-up artist Lynsey Alexander.

Blackberry Lips

With ‘tea-stained’ eyelids and subtle concealing under the eyes, Roksanda’s beauty reclaimed the berry lip. ‘Inspired by the national portrait gallery, we looked at regency paintings and artwork, creating skin that looks perfectly flawless; it’s wealthy but with a warmth to it,’ shares Dominic Skinner. ‘We paired the pillowy blackcurrant lip with cool flawless skin.’

The No Mascara Trend

Confirming that the skinny brow is dead, many make-up artists chose to accentuate the brows and leave lashes bare this season. ‘The look for JW Anderson this season was focused on elegant, handsome beauty. This is a simple yet considered look – there is a toughness in the eyebrow which we’re bushing up to make it bold and masculine, balanced by a feminine sweet pale pink lip,’ shares make-up artist Lyndsey Alexander.

Doll-like Beauty

Inspired by porcelain doll beauty, clumped lashes and bold eye looks were front and centre at Harris Reed. ‘This season, I think we’ll be seeing a lot of bold statement eyes with vibrant washes of both matte and metallic colour across the lids, plus lashings of mascara,’ confirms key make-up artist, Sofia Tilbury.

Supermodel Glamour

Supermodel cheekbones, soft smokey eyes and contouring confirmed that glamour is officially back on the beauty agenda. ‘The make-up inspiration for Richard Quinn’s show is the framework of a Nineties supermodel – there’s a regality to it. We’ve framed the eyes, contoured the skin and laminated the cheekbones,’ shares Dominic Skinner backstage.

Balmy Gloss

At Richard Quinn, MAC teased a new clear lipstick that we’re expecting to go viral on TikTok any minute now. Dominic Skinner, who applied the new lip balm meets lipstick onto cheeks and lips backstage shared that this subtle balm can be swiped on as a sheen of colour on lips or used as a highlighter for subtle glow and definition.

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